In February 2009 we first stayed at Glencoe Cottages following a recommendation from the Just Dogs Shop Doggie Bloggie (note: this was on page 6 when I wrote this – it may be on a higher page number when you look !).
We stayed at the Bed & Breakfast (Signal Rock Cottage) and had two glorious days in clear winter sun with snow low on the hills. Our friends Toby and Mich (and their two dogs) stayed for one night, whilst we had a longer 3 night weekend. It was the time of the full moon and the Glencoe Hills glowed white in the clear night skies. It made for a wonderful weekend break.
We then booked for a week in a cottage in September and then the B & B again for an extended weekend this February (2010) – both times with Toby & Mich and their dogs!
We set off at just before 5pm in the afternoon (only an hour later than intended) and arrived at Signal Rock Cottage at about 7:30pm having had a good journey despite some snow falling and almost meeting a stag at close quarters on the road near the Kingshouse.
Having been welcomed by Slawek at the cottage we walked up the road to the Clachaig Inn with Barney and Tangles happily sniffing the verges after their time cooped up in the car. We get text message from Toby – they’re leaving late so won’t be in time for a Clachaig meal.
The Boots Bar was full as we’d expected but we managed to get a table (with a resident Collie) when some people left. The resident Collie belonged to a guy at the next table – it liked hiding under the seat away from passing feet – unlike Barney and Tangles who lay across the “gangways” to start with. Eventually they settled down though Barney kept standing up to flirt with people at surrounding tables as their food arrived.
Barneys flirting technique: stand up and stare (as cutely as possible) at the target, wag tail as energetically as possible (this involves both tail and most of his lower body) and hope that this is enough to elicit a food based response from target!
We get our food, and after five minutes of pushing dogs away (ours – the Collie just lies under Lesleys seat as good as gold) we start our meal. We’ve just finished when Toby arrives – to be greeted enthusiastically by Barney – and then Tangles. He gets the key to the B & B and heads off. It’s just after 9:00 – he must have had a fast run up! We walk back in the clear cold moon dark evening and meet Toby, Mich and the two dogs at the cattle grid and thence back to the cottage for a good nights sleep. We’re all tired and exhausted from work stress so the peace and quiet of the cottage in these settings is just wonderful.
On Saturday we went west to the Sands of Morar ( ScotlandView link; Undiscovered Scotland link; Geograph link ) and enjoyed a great walk along the beaches from Toigal along the tidal sand and around the headland (a wee scramble over the rocks) to the next beach at Rubh’an Achaidh Mhòir and over the headland to Camusdarach beach and the rocky headland before returning along the old Arisaig-Mallaig road to our carpark. A great walk in calm, cool, though overcast, conditions.
The dogs absolutely loved the beach, Barney and Bracken running after thrown tennis balls, wee Tangles chasing after the other dogs – especially Brandy who just ran for the joy of it rather than after tennis balls! It was superb seeing our little lurcher streaking at high speed over the sand – the first time she’s really been allowed to stretch her legs since we got her 2 weeks ago.

Enjoying the Sands of Morar (photo by Mich)

Barney does a right (after the ball). Bracken strolls! (photo by Lesley)

Figures and reflections on the sand (photo by Lesley)

Barney running the sands (photo by Lesley)

Toby in a small cove with Brandy, Bracken, Barney & Tangles (photo by Lesley)
While we combed to beach for shells (cowrie, winkles, and some great bits of coral) the dogs beach combed for bits of crab and tried drinking seawater.
We drove up to Mallaig for some soup and rolls then back to Glencoe and Signal Rock Cottage. There we found that one of the dogs had produced a large amount of liquid in the back of Toby’s truck. We suspect one of the sea water drinkers had brought up the unpalatable liquid. Luckily Toby and Mich have Tuffies beds in the back of their truck so these got washed down and left to dry.
Our meal that night was, appropriately enough, at the excellent Loch Leven Seafood Café restaurant. A really great meal – though dogs aren’t allowed in – so they “rested” in the back of the truck.
An enjoyably late breakfast (9am) on Sunday before we set off to walk on the north side of Loch Leven. Having two cars we could do a traverse of the Corbett ridge of Beinn na Caillich and Mam na Gualainn ( Walk Highlands link; Geograph link ). We park a the start of the road to Mamore Lodge and walk up to the crossing of the West Highland Way following that up to the start of the path that takes us up the ridge. Mich turns back at this point to return via the Lodge to the car.

Bracken, Brandy and Barney on the track (photo by Mich)

Discussing our route. Tangles and Barney wait for the decision (photo by Mich).

The blog author and the hill. Approx ascent route in yellow (photo by Mich)
The weather is somewhat cloudy and we climb up the steep “Mamore”-slope to the start of the ridge. Most dogs are on leads as there seems to be the scent of deer on the ridge. I don’t feel hill-fit, neither does Lesley. Barney and Brandy are raring to go. Bracken and Tangles do the lurcher thing of looking unenthusiastic and Eeyore-ish. On the upper slopes there’s some lying snow – very soft and a bit slippery. We make the summit of Beinn na Caillich and head west along the enjoyable ridge stopping just short of the coll for some food in the shelter of some boulders. The dogs do the usual rucksack nuzzling before being hitched to a rock (We do feed them as well).
Then it’s off west again to the high plateau and Mam na Gualainn. By now it’s getting a bit windy and some rain coming in and we head off to descend by the long ridge to the south west to meet the path dropping down the glen. Wee Tangles gets her coat on for the latter part of the ridge into the glen as she’s getting cold in the rain. It’s a quick descent and we’re soon back at the car and pack all 4 dogs in along with us 3 people. Twenty minutes later we’re back at the Cottage and anticipating a good evening meal at the Clachaig Inn.
Whilst we walked the hill Mich had gone into the recently opened Glencoe Café (in Glencoe village) for lunch and reported that she had a great bowl of soup there. We’d thought of going there for a snack on Monday morning but it’s closed Monday and Tuesday in the winter. But looks like a good palce to visit for some home made food!
Now, just some background before the remainder of the story:
The weekend of the 13th and 14th of February was:
- St Valentines Day
- A mid-Term school holiday for a lot of the UK.
- The weekend of the Lochaber Mountain Festival
All events that are known well in advance and all likely to attract lots and lots of people into the Glencoe area. So, any decent catering establishment would make sure well in advance that they had both the provisions and staff to cope with this situation in a professional and seamless manner.
Well, you would think so wouldn’t you?
We set off up to the Inn after 7pm – part of a community of head torches moving up the road from the various accommodations between the Clachaig and Glencoe Village. In the Boots Bar we order our meals at about 7:20pm. Unfortunately we’re informed that they’ve run out of cheese so all cheese items are off – I can’t get my cheese roll with the soup, I can’t get nachos as an alternative, so I have to choose something else. Our order goes in at 7:35 (about 50 minutes before the time Lesley & I had ordered on Friday).
By 8:20 we hadn’t been served – whilst several people who had arrived after us were getting their food. But ONE couple who had ordered were called up and told there were no Steak and Ale pies. They got their money back, but no food, and were left to find food somewhere else at 8:20 pm in Glencoe.
Toby (who’d ordered a steak/ale pie) went up and asked what had happened to our order – he was told that there were 4 orders before it, there were no steak/ale pies or Burritos (for Mich) and they would need to get something different. Toby is good at remonstration and we eventually got:
- Our money back in full
- A free bottle of wine
- Some food.
At one point I remember Toby had asked for Venison Burgers (which they said they had) for himself and Mich and being told they’d take an hour (!) and him asking if they were going to shoot the effing things!? I could tell he was not only getting hungry but a bit irate. We did get the food within 15 minutes….
However the Cream of Tomato soup had become green pea soup (which my partner does not like) -
The reasons we were given for this chaos were that there were more people than expected in the main restaurant and they were running out of stuff.
It was also evident that the bar staff were becoming unhappy with the situation as a fairly large number of people had not got their meals and left.
Even our dogs were getting bored and restless by the time we’d eaten..
I give the bar staff some brownie points for the refund plus some sort of a meal – but this we had to fight for and do a lot of firm negotiation.
The Clachaig should be run as a top-notch professional establishment and the many good remarks on TripAdvisor show that this usually happens. However, when things go wrong they go wrong spectacularly. In our situation the large number of people was NOT unexpected – these were events that were in Calendars for years ahead – it seems to be bad planning on the part of management. I did leave a report on TripAdvisor about this!
I still think that the Clachaig is a good place to go if you have dogs and want a reasonable meal – with the caveat that the same thing may happen to you as happened to us. So have a back-up food plan in place….
We were advised by the manager to write to the owners of the Clachaig – (they also own the Grog and Gruel) but nowhere on any of their web sites are there contact details for the owners!
On Monday we packed up and headed down to Hospital Loch for a walk through the woods and around the loch. It had clagged in overnight and, although we started in a clear spell, the rain came on pretty soon and we got a bit wet. Then the drive south and east – heavy rain, sleet and snow until we reached Tyndrum and it just cleared into a wonderful sunny day…
Ah well! Despite the last evening at the Clachaig we had a great weekend, the dogs really enjoyed their varied outdoor experiences and so did we. And we actually managed it without a visit to the Ice Factor – which is almost unheard of. Or rather 75% of us did ! (See Mich’s comment!)
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