27th – 29th December 2009 !
The White Witch is back in Narnia! And there’s no sign of Aslan so far. Barney doesn’t really fit the bill – although he’s almost the right colour.
The snow first fell in this area on the 22nd December (2009) and has remained – with a few top ups – since then. It has been continuously cold with temperatures almost always below zero – so the snow is still powdery where it hasn’t been walked on or flattened.
Anyway, we went on the “between weekend” ( two days between Christmas and New Year) to Kingussie / Aviemore this year. Usually we stay in a bunkhouse or youth hostel with our friends. This year we stayed in a dog-friendly Guest House in Kingussie (Allt Gynack Guest House) – away from the crowds at Aviemore but not too far to drive to meet our friends.
When we left Dundee the temperature was just above zero – we arrived in Kingussie with minus 5 degrees. Found the Guest House without any problem, settled us and the dogs in (we had both Barney and Rosie with us). Then a walk round the town in the cold, admiring the massive icicles hanging from the gutters whilst being pulled in every direction by the happily exploring dogs. Found a place to eat in the Happy Days fish and chip shop and then retired for a good nights sleep.
By the next day the temperature had dropped to about minus 16 to minus 18 centigrade and we drove up through a frosty, snowy wonderland to meet our friends in Aviemore.
Ally and Nina were waiting near the La Taverna Italian Restaurant at the southern end of Aviemore and joined us for the short drive to the car park at Inverdruie to walk via the minor road to Blackpark then on to and around Loch an Eilein and back over the hill via Tullochgrue.
The sky is clear, sunny and there’s no wind. Just intense cold. We’re glad we’re wrapped up well. In a clearing just before Croft it seems like the air is dancing with light. Small specks of ice, drifting in Brownian motion, reflect and sparkle in the suns light. We don’t know what it’s called (Later, Ally does some research on the web and finds the name of Diamond Dust). So here’s a photo of the diamond dust – the most obvious specks being in the lower part of the picture against the darker snow. When you’ve got your eye in look in the darker blue at the top of the photo. We stood entranced by this dance if light for some time (until Barney and Rosie reminded us that we should be walking).
Sparkles of "diamond dust" in the still -16C air !
We headed over to Loch an Eilein and round the west side. It’s frozen – but warning signs up so we don’t venture onto the ice even though we could reach the castle by ice if we’d dared.
There’s some warmth when we’re in the sun but as soon as we’re in shadow the temperature drops rapidly. We make our way round the western end of the loch and head back along the southern side. Barney is enjoying running backward and forward through the snow until he comes across two strange apparitions making their way rapidly towards him. They look vaguely human but are in bright coloured clothes, with sticks in each hand and moving on planks. Barney treats them with the suspicion they deserve – running up to them and then away then back and away. They pass him and us on their way, skiing clockwise round the loch and Barney relaxes again.
Snow covered trees at Loch an Eilein
At the eastern end of the Loch we take the track eastwards – thankfully a trail has been worn down by previous skiers and walkers and we make our way up the hill then bear left towards Achnagoichan, now trudging through deeper relatively untrod snow. We stop near some high trees in the sun for some food. Ally makes the mistake of leaving some fruit cake on her rucksack when she takes a photograph. When she looks down there’s a furry Cairn munching the last of her piece of cake.
Refreshed we continue on to Achnagoichan then over the hill towards Whitewell and some magnificent views over the snow covered trees of Rothiemurchus forest towards the Cairngorms.
View between snow covered trees towards the Cairngorms.
Another view towards the north-east - full moon placed strategically!
Unsurprisingly we see a professional photographer on the moor below us. Gathering images for next years Calendars and Christmas cards!
Ally, Nina, Lesley and Rosie (the wee furry one) at Upper Tullochgrue
From Tullochgrue we head back down the road via Blackpark to the car. We try to get some mulled wine (or rather mulled cider) at the place across the road but it’s too busy. So we head back by car to the La Taverna Italian restaurant for a welcome coffee and a small bite to eat, before returning to our various accomodations to relax and get ready for the groups meal (also in La Taverna Restaurant later that evening – it was a very enjoyable meal – good food, service and company).
Next morning the weather has clagged in, although the icicles are still there along the main street of Kingussie. The freezing fog and Lesleys worsening cold decide us to leave one night early – so we headed back home. Perhaps, just as well, because the snow came back in the next morning and the road became difficult to drive.
But the one days walk was superb – in conditions that have been too rare over the past years.
Our guest house, Allt Gynack, was a really good place to stay. Very welcoming of both us and the dogs. Good breakfasts and a great location in Kingussie – easy access to lots of walks above the town.
Filed under: In the Hills
